Kōenji is a district of Tokyo in the Suginami ward, west of Shinjuku. The district's name originates from the old temples in the area. Kōenji is primarily a community with easy access to the Shinjuku and Tokyo stations. It was largely unaffected by the 1980s building boom and therefore many of the houses and shops in the area are small and reflect the character of "pre-boom" Japan. Due to its aging retail district and location on a major commuter route, the station area has become a center for small restaurants and "Live Houses" which offer live music. It is also known for having a young population and as a center for suburban underground culture including multiple used record and clothing shops. In 2006, when the Japanese PSE law went into effect restricting the sale of electronic goods built before 2001, Kōenji was chosen as the site for a protest due to its active "retro" culture and used equipment shops.
History
The current division of Kōenji into north and south around Kōenji Station is a post-war arrangement. The whole area surrounding Shukuhōzan Kōenji temple used to be called "Kōenji". There also used to be a town called Mabashi between Kōenji and nearby Asagaya, which has since been absorbed into Kōenji, although the name "Mabashi" is retained in some schools and shrines.
Entertainment
Shopping
After Harajuku and Shimokitazawa, Kōenji is the best-known area in Tokyo for used clothing shopping. The majority of the stores are on the south side of the JR station, on or near Look Shōtengai. South of the station is the "PAL" shopping arcade filled with many food, clothing, and discount goods shops. North of the station there are two main shopping streets filled with used record shops, restaurants and cafes. West of the station, both north, south, and under the tracks are many small yakitori restaurants and bars. The station itself was renovated in 2006, and a brand new Hotel Mets opened at the northern entrance in March 2007. Between independent grocers and convenience chain stores there are also several large supermarkets, including Queen's Isetan.
Eating and drinking
Dozens of yakitori restaurants, izakaya, ramen noodle restaurants, and bars can be found in the streets and alleys of both north and south Kōenji, as well as under the elevated tracks near the JR station.
Each year in late August the Kōenji Awa Odori festival is held over two days. This is increasingly becoming a major tourist attraction for the area. It is the second largest Awa Dance Festival in Japan, with an average of 188 groups composed of 12,000 dancers, attracting 1.2 million visitors over the course of the weekend. The festival has its origins in Tokushima and was adopted by Kōenji post-war. It involves a procession of groups performing traditional music and dance, and is enjoyed by a wide variety of people. The procession weaves its way through the streets on both sides of Kōenji Station, often with a dramatic conclusion at the "finish line".
